Musing in fashion's working world

Musing in fashion’s working world..

As I began to embark upon my Indian expedition, I was filled with worry and anxiety for I knew that throughout the entirety of my time I had to uphold a cool and collected persona. At any given time my cover could be blown and all that I had strived to achieve could come to a grinding halt. All those helpless civilians that surrounded would be in jeopardy and there would be nothing that I could do. So armed with conviction I slowly edged closer to one of Kolkata’s most deprived working environments.  I had arranged previously to meet with Phoolendu Vagish, the founder of Kolkata’s largest ‘sweatshop’. On first impressions Phoolendu appeared warm and welcoming, but it soon become apparent that this charming exterior was part of his tactics to lure me in. Eventually I was to become subjected to the catastrophic experiences that his already existing workers were undergoing.  Lost and helpless I found myself lost in my thoughts, wondering how I could possibly survive the rest of the afternoon let alone the rest of the week under his orders. Conscious that I set out to complete my task, to reveal this man as exploiting his employee’s my mind had to stay focused.

This new life that been bestowed upon me seems to be forever expanding, and I revel in the rewards. An overwhelming sense of gladness for all the persecution that I had once become accustomed to has now been taken away from me. All the tears that I once cried, running down my withered face has now been wiped away. Sadness has merged into happiness. Yet I still feel confused; why me? Why have I become the one to experience a world of happiness when my loved ones are still battling in a brutal world?

Although I knew what I was doing for was for the good of others, I still had a feeling of despondency about me. Why had I willingly let myself become part of this industry? As I stood there, feet bare on the cold hard cobbles, I witnessed for myself just how much suffering actually went into the production of the garments that we call fashion. What I noticed is that what I could see around me was also ‘fashionable’, a form of survival, the only way of existence.  As I peered into the midnight blackness, I knew the time had come. The time to seize all the lifeless bodies, that were hurled together acting as their only measure of warmth. I was about to take them into a whole new world.

As these thoughts race through my mind, I am gripped with a sudden sense of euphoria.  Momentarily I delve deep into my old existence and I can see that the feelings I am experiencing is slowly being passed onto my loved ones. They too are filled with light, and finally my sorrow starts to lift. I can now venture on into my new life, content that there is an element of righteousness in the world. I am incredibly grateful to that one night where a fellow person could see beyond the world of poverty and see us as the individuals that we are. Provide us with the life that we have longed to live.

As to be expected, my presence initially ignited the room with fear. But on closer inspection they soon realised that I had in fact become on of them.  I wasn’t after them for their labour, nor was I there to abuse them of their rights.  Instead, I was going to use them to regenerate the fashion industry; provide them with a new beginning. I was to take them out of their mundane life, and show them that they could provide for their families without fear of being whipped for missing deadlines. Deep within the depths of India it was settled, I was going to remove them from this harsh world they were currently occupying and show them a snapshot of what life outside could be. Show them a different kind of culture and regenerate their working world. A culture filled with equality and fairness: a moment.




Words by Danielle Baskerville

‘Je suis gallois’

We all have our bucket lists. Mine seems like it is continuously growing, thriving off new visionary spaces, combined with the conviction of retreating to a world of adventure and experiencing different cultures along the way. The last few years I have seen myself collecting valuable experiences and being fortunate enough to encounter just some of these places that were once on my ‘bucket list’; with memories to last a lifetime (as cliché as that may sound).  But through the conversations I have had with the locals alike, one thing that I have discovered is that not every individual shares the same thought process and elation that I have found myself immersed within. Taken back by the different lifestyles that people I would come across on my travels would lead, and how they would go about their daily tasks, the phrase “each to their own” never seemed to be so true!

My most recent of trips was to the City of Paris. Instantly immersed in the Parisian culture, a sense of blissfulness was ever present.  Aware that the French are perpetually dubbed for their rudeness, the expression ‘Je suis gallois’ mixed with laughter soon lifted the mood.  An internationally diverse city, with works of art scattered across the streets in graffiti like manner would seem to follow you around. It came as no surprise to find never-ending amount of galleries, offering work from some of the most inspiring artists. And Art seemed to follow through into Parisian’s fashion, which offered a subdued take on the visuals, which would greet you once inside those galleries.   

Trying to fit in an entire list of ‘to-do’ whilst on a tight timescale did prove a little difficult, and it wasn’t until my very last night in the city, did it really hit me just how beautiful the city is.  Sat at the window of my hotel room, looking out unto the urban landscape that surrounded, I was found myself in ore of the individuals that could call Paris home.  Although they were probably used to tourists alike flocking the city, they still would greet you with a smile and even the odd hello every now and then. Immersed within their own culture, they still seemed intrigued by others, even the unofficial venders that would try and sell you merchandise at the foot of the Eiffel Tower, to the happy go lucky young gentlemen who would perform for money on the Metro.  Asking questions, trying to figure out where Wales was, even at one point arguing that the place I call home doesn’t exist, it all made me realise that all this was just a snapshot of life within another culture for both myself and those asking the questions. We find ourselves so wrapped up in our culture that its not until you find yourself living within someone else’s that you really appreciate what you have.

Words By Danielle Baskerville

The Creative Collective - Introducing Mike Harvey

Each week at Platfform we are delving into the workspaces of a series of creative individuals, discovering their unique talents, and providing you with an exclusive insight into their journey. 

Watch this space..

Mike Harvey - Honest 

Image credit - Mike Harvey 

TAXI portrait '£3.06'

Last Tuesday myself and the editorial team at Platfform had the exciting opportunity to interview

Mike Harvey for the forth coming edition of the Vignette edition to be released in March 2015.

Mike, a self taught photographer from Swansea in South Wales who became a taxi driver for four years to fund his love of travel, hailed a small storm of media interest upon release of his TAXI photography project, which was taken over a six month period in 2010. The unusual but fascinating and powerful series of portraits that Harvey, now a teacher, took of his passengers explore the real communities behind people's assumptions, providing a snapshot in time of people's journeys and documenting a small snippet of welsh history and culture.

As Harvey's warm, reassuring welsh accent filled the room, the nerves of four excited but anxious Fashion Promotion students quickly dissipated, giving us an insight in to why so many of his passengers felt completely at ease and natural in opening up and relaxing in to conversation on their journey with him.

“It was a philosophical fair ground really. People would bring topics in to the cab with them, or it was a natural progression of the journey....there was no limit as to the inspiration that would start a conversation in a Taxi. Nothing was off bounds”

Harvey's natural interest and fascination in people started as a young child. Naturally inquisitive and wanting to understand people, he went on to study Human Geography in University, and began the profession of Taxi driving to fund his love of travel to places such as Egypt, Brazil, India and Nepal. Looking under the touristic facade at the culture and the real communities of these fascinating countries, he began to compare it to what he was witnessing at home in Neath and Swansea. His interest in the journeys and stories of his passengers fascinated him, and it became a natural progression to start documenting the journeys; and the TAXI photography project was born.

As the conversation progressed, the four of us became more drawn in to Harvey's compelling, unique story of his photography journey, his easy going and charming manner inviting us to ask questions off scope of the interview. There is something distinctive about a taxi that is synonymous with anonymity and comfort, that makes many of us leave our inhibitions at the curb and divulge our inner most thoughts, secrets and worries with free abandon, to what is, in essence, a total stranger. The spontaneity of the situation in which these characters are placed enables their photographs to exude authenticity and honesty - something Mike consistently reinforces.

“You do see so many different little social nuances.... there were so many inspiring moments being in the cab....it gives you a wider appreciation of things!”

What makes Harvey's portraits so poignant is his ability when the shutter goes down, to capture that visual representation of his passengers portraying a small part of their journey, making us attempt to breakdown our assumptions of a certain stereotype.

Harvey has learnt over the years to take photographs with the motivation to achieve something, rather than taking a photograph for the sake of preserving a frame that should be enjoyed through the eye. In todays social media obsessed society, photography can take on an element of delusion, detracting us from the moment and experience that really matters. “There's a sense of a modern day keeping up with the Jones” Harvey contemplates. “If you're to busy looking at others peoples drive, then you're not concentrating on your own journey”

Read our interview with Mike Harvey in the new edition of the Platfform magazine out end of March 

Visit Mike Harvey's website to see more of the TAXI photography project here

Words Angharad Selway 

Women Fashion Power

Joan Burstein 

Photographed by Billie Sheepers

Last Saturday myself and fellow Fashion Promotion student Nia travelled to London on behalf of Platfform for the latest exhibition at the Design Museum. 'Women Fashion Power' began on the 29th of October and runs until April 26th, and is definitely one not to be missed. 

The spacious maze on the first floor of the museum is complete with iconic outfits and memorabilia that celebrate and commemorate inspirational women throughout history who have used fashion as a tool to compliment and define their position in the world. 

Prior to this, I had recently indulged in Francis Corners easy read ‘Why Fashion Matters’ in attempt to get an deeper understanding on this form of art which I am immersed in on a daily basis, but find myself occasionally comprehending its importance. I picked up on some interesting points supporting the significance of fashion and its presence, or perhaps ephemerality. Having been made aware of the exhibition I was keen to witness the progression of women and dress throughout history condensed into this one space, in addition to the fact it was a great excuse to revisit my spiritual home. 

Whilst immersed in the exhibition, I was incredibly empowered by the influence fashion has in contributing to the imprint women have left on society. From politicians, celebrities, designers, princesses, CEOs, dames and sportswomen, the museum showcases how the female race throughout history have used fashion as a illustrative medium to express themselves but in particular, assert authority. The idea that the relationship fashion has with social ideas and situations is lucid throughout, displaying the choice of women's clothing as a mirror in cultural and social occurrences from the eighteenth century to present. 

The display is inspiring not only from an observational perspective, but also evoked a sense of awe in me towards the female race and our achievements. Fashion consistently provides us with a platform to exhibit these revolutions. From our progressions, successes, challenges, and achievements, not only do we execute our position in society, but we dictate also how others perceive us through the way we dress.  

Women's aesthetics have always suffered a wider degree of scrutiny in comparison to men, placing the importance of the way a woman looks and dresses at the forefront of everything we do. There is a vast amount of diversity when it comes to the way we can dress ourselves which is shaped much more than just our physical form. Our careers, culture, interests, hobbies, relationships, goals and desires all have a huge influence on the clothes we wear and this exhibition truly demonstrated this influential form of self expression.

Having always been a huge fan of the peoples Princess, I was in awe of Diana's black floor length gown. The embellished number was designed for her by Jaques Azagury and worn at the party celebrating her 36th birthday. 

Upon reflection, we discussed the items we had witnessed from a historical point of view, expressing how relatable it felt to see not only the minuscule corsets from the 18th century, but the pink velour juicy couture suits which had been sighted not so long ago. It was fascinating to consider what the exhibition would feature ten years from now.

Leaving the museum on the south bank and heading down through the Bermondsey cobbles to find a spot for lunch, we both felt inspired and invigorated by this thing called ‘Fashion’. Despite its harsher edges, Women Fashion Power really inspired me to nourish its presence, because after all - it truly is a mirror to society. The idea that women can continue to decide what that mirror features, was hugely thrilling, reigniting this awareness in me of just how powerful fashion truly is. 

Book tickets here - https://designmuseum.org/exhibitions/women-fashion-power

Words - Bryony Caldwell

29th January 2015 

  

The Vignette Edition

'We are the curious fly'

To be a 'fly on the wall' derives from the idea that events are seen candidly. The Vignette edition is motivated by appreciating what is candid, because 'candid' is truth, and truth is beauty. 

Taken by Eni Turkeshi 

'Obscurities of everyday life' 

The ability to overlook the mundane and repetitive aspects of everyday living and those people who conform to it, we at Platfform are intrigued by these obscure, unique details and the individuals that create them. 

Dora Maar 1936, Taken by Man Ray 

'Stolen snapshots'

Everyday we make new memories, we're taking stolen snapshots of everything thats happening around us. Feeding off our surroundings, and filtering it to make something creative out of what we've been given. 

'Lost' taken by Moey Hoque 

'Interpret the untold'

At Platfform magazine we peer beneath the surface of the obscure, the overlooked and unnoticed fragments of everyday life and seek to decipher the untold stories behind them. 

Taken by Elizabeth Haust

Platfform Pre Launch Event 2014 - The Review (05/03/14)

Photographs by Elliot Newton

“A successful night all round!” say the flushed editors as the evening draws to a close. Platfform Magazine 2014 has finally kicked off and the pre launch event was pulled off without the slightest trace of a hiccup. The evening included a selection of local DJ’s, singers and bands covering a selection of styles to suit everyone’s taste. The acoustic sets built up a chilled out ambient through out the evening finishing of the night with a house DJ set.

The cocktails and wine were flowing as the fashion students showcased a taste of what the magazine is going to be like. Talking to bloggers about the brand and how they could get involved with what out students are up to. Getting the Platfform brand talked about in the world of up and coming bloggers.

Little chocolates were placed around the room to add the indulgent touch, as who does love a chocolate or five to indulge in. Cococarvan provided the completely vegan chocolatier was created especially for the event and providing a great promotion for the starting up chocolate brand. “Chocolate gives off the happy hormone” as said by Jacques cop, and we completely agree.

Platfform 2014's wonderful editors Lorna Slessor (Left) & Elly Gann

Its safe to say that fashion students know how to pull off a very indulgent evening of music, cocktails and chocolate and promote the new issues of plattffom at the same time.


Make sure you check out posts from the Cardiff bloggers that were able to attend the party!

You can find the super stylish Nokhuthula's blog post here: crystalcosmicchic

And the wonderful Kelsie's post here: cutepandaa

Platfform PR Team

Platfform Pre Launch Event (26/02/14)

The Platfform team are organising a fabulous pre-launch party to celebrate the new edition of the magazine. As you may already know, the theme of this year's edition is Indulgence and we hope to through a party to fit.

Throughout the evening local singers, bands and DJS including Sau, Emma Redford, Kayleigh Fish, Jeris Spencer and Vera Von Clitz will be filling the space there incredible talents. The event is tailored to attract those involved in fashion, the arts and the creative industries. So if this sounds like you, get involved!

The Platfform pre-launch party will take place on Thursday, 27th February at Peppermint Bar in Cardiff from 7pm to 11pm. We promise to put on a vibrant party! 

“Cardiff fashion folk know how to party, so indulgence is the pefect magazine theme!” 

Patricia Brien

(Executive Producer)

Platfform PR Team

Platfform goes to London Fashion Week (21/02/14)

This week our deputy editors took to the streets of London town (AKA Somerset House), to gain some style-spiration from the glamorous, albeit eccentric, people visiting London for Fashion Week. It's pretty clear, from the snaps that they brought back, that here at Platfform we love the finer details. London Fashion Week showcases all kinds of designer, from the up-and-coming to the established. However the real show is the style that is found in the courtyard...

"London Fashion Week 2014…the most outrageous fashion devotees turn up outside Somerset House to show off their unique styles to, well, anyone that’s interested. 

Yes, we were stood at the sidelines a little in ore. Headwear of all shapes and sizes floated past us – giant pink trilbies to oversized sun hats (only at fashion week would you see these accessories in the midst of February). 

But there really is nothing like the atmosphere felt at LFW. A feeling that you really can be who ever you want to be and it’s completely allowed. Inspiring, yet slightly intimidating, London Fashion Week is defiantly a fashion students ultimate paradise."

Elly Gann & Lorna Slessor

(Deputy Editors)

WELCOME TO THE NEW PLATFFORM (21/02/14)

We’re back! The first Platfform issue was released back in the year 2011, representing the University of South Wales in its very first fashion magazine. Ever since then, Platfform has evolved each year, bringing you the most innovative and creative design from our ambitious students. Platfform 2014 has been under construction and we are here to reveal the first inside look into our 2014 issue. This year’s Platfform edition is all about creating an indulgent escape for the fashion conscious. We aim to create an issue in which you, the reader can escape and explore a world created by most innovative new talent within the future industry.

As the digital platform for Platfform we will aim to provide you with a first look at our exclusive online content. This will vary from our fabulously cutting edge editorials with behind the scenes sneak peeks, to feature articles written by aspiring writers from all over the UK.

April Holcombe

Platfform.org

Kitan - Cardiff's Hidden Gem (18/10/13)

So as Cardiff Fashion week approaches I thought it would be a good idea to delve into some of the city’s relatively un-known independent businesses. Although arcades seem to be filled to the brim with stunning boutiques and gorgeous vintage shops, there is one gem that has yet to be discovered by the fashion lovers of the city.

Kitan is a small (and when I say small I really mean it) business ran by Mai Yamazaki. Originally from Japan, Mai has lived in this country for over 10 years and is using her true passion and love for textiles to create beautiful one off pieces of clothing, jewellery and shoes. Based in a small studio on Mill Lane in Cardiff, the Kitan showroom/studio really is a diamond in the rough. Not only is Mai’s work room filled with beautiful textiles that she has gathered from her travels to Morocco, it is also adorned with some of her handcrafted designs. It is easy to think that there are many places that offer hand made designs in cities but after speaking to Mai it is clear to see that the reason behind her work is purely based on her love for creating beautiful garments.

Mai’s small work area surrounded by beads, buttons and inspiration for her designs.

Speaking of her designs, Mai says that the embroidery work on her garments is created from using cactus silk, something she discovered in Morocco and a thread that is used frequently with embroidery there. Latifa is Mai’s hand embroiderer and is responsible for creating some of the most breathtaking and also time consuming designs on the Kitan pieces. From taking the time to source the perfect fabrics and the perfect people to work with these fabrics, Mai and her small team use the highest standard of silk and linen all complimented with the use of delicate and precise embroidery.  The image below shows one piece in the collection, highlighting just how amazing the garments are. Mai also told of how she tries to make all of the items she designs different, whether that be with different trims or different colours. It is clear to see in her collection how much thought and time goes into her work.

Each part of these necklaces is woven from Cactus silk in variations of colours.

Although it was clear as soon as I met Mai that she was a genuine woman with a genuine passion for what she does, it was amazing to hear that she also works with a charity for disabled women. Al Kawter is an organisation in Marrakech that teaches women how to embroider and sew, they are paid an hourly wage and in Mai’s words “Enjoy what every woman enjoys, sewing and sitting and being able to laugh.” This admirable love for making other people happy was clear to see when Mai showed me a board that showed generations of families in Morocco and Marrakech sewing together, learning how to embroider and passing what they know down through generations of family members.

As our conversation came to a close it was easy to see that being surrounded by her beautiful creations means the world to Mai, as she is ready to fly back to Morocco tomorrow (she misses the hustle and bustle) she offered some advice “I think keeping positive is the most important thing, if you are positive people will be able to see that, you can do anything with being positive, I never thought I would do this and I just followed my instinct and it has worked out well…well enough for now.”

Take some time and contact Mai, she offers open studios to look around and you can easily email her via the Kitan website. Kitan is a down to earth and refreshing look into creative and one off fashion like no other I have seen before.

Mai also said that she herself wants the idea of women through the generations teaching each other how to create and how to love what they do to somehow find it’s way into British design. With an industry that is focused highly on making money, Mai’s aim is to have loyalty and love within the creation of the items she and her team make. It is the story and the meaning behind her brand that Mai is determined to uphold.

Lucy Ashley

www.kitansouk.co.uk